Woods and Finishes
Finishes
All of my cutting boards are treated with mineral oil followed by beeswax. These are both 100% food safe. They should be routinely treated with a mineral oil / beeswax compound (typically a cutting board or butcher block wax). Pieces that will not be used for cutting, can be stained and finished with wax or polyurethane. Once dry, these compounds are also considered food safe.
Cutting Board Care
All boards and trays have been conditioned with mineral oil and sealed with a mineral oil – beeswax combination. This will prevent water and other nasty microbes from seeping into the wood. Both treatments are food grade and safe for food contact.
To clean your board, wipe it with a damp towel using a very dilute and very small amount of soap. Whatever you do, do not submerge your cutting board in water or put it in the dishwasher. This could damage the surface, remove the smooth finish and protection, and make it feel as if it is wearing a sweater. If you accidentally do so, boards and trays can be re-sanded and re-conditioned with mineral oil and beeswax.
Mineral oil is considered a wood treatment and conditioner not a finish. Thus, cutting boards and serving trays should be routinely re-conditioned. It is a good idea to treat your board with a cutting board conditioner containing mineral oil or a mineral oil – beeswax combination. For example, Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner is available at most Lowes or Home Depot stores. Whatever brand you use, make sure it is food-safe or food grade. Wipe the board with a conditioner, let it sit for an hour or so and wipe off the excess. This will return the shine and hide most small knife marks and other scratches. If treated properly, your board will last for years.
A small tin of "Board Butter" is included with all orders.
Our Board Butter is made with Mineral oil and beeswax. It is 100% food safe.
Wood Types
The colors of woods used can vary from one piece to another. Also, grain patterns can vary considerably. Here are some of the woods I work with and a short description of each
Maple: A light colored wood with minimal grain patters.
Ambrosia Maple: A type of maple with "stains" running through the grain (actually from insect infestation). Not quite as light a hard Maple.
Black Walnut: A dark wood. Has a deep brown color. It may also have some "lighter" streaks within the grain pattern.
Peruvian Walnut: Very dark and rich finish. Has minimal grain pattern.
Cherry: Has a rich, reddish-orange color. Can also have some very unique grain patterns. May also have lighter streaks.
Hickory: Light with a dark grain that can be quite prominent. Great for cutting boards. Hard as a rock.
Purple Heart. A very hard, exotic wood. Purple in color but may fade to more of a deep red or maroon.
Padauk. Also an exotic wood. Orange in color, that ranges from brilliant to dark orange.
Bloodwood: Dark red, typically turns a brownish, maroon with age.
Oak: Not typically used for cutting boards because of its rather porous grain. Easily stained yielding various finishes. White oak appears lighter and more tan in color. Red oak is darker and has a very slight red tint.
Sapele: Golden to dark reddish. Beautiful ribbon grain patter that gives it a unique sheen.